Pasta con Acciuga e Mollica (Pasta with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs)

Serves 6

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups breadcrumbs
1/3 cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves
1/3 cup tomato paste
1 cup warm water
1 and 1/2 pounds spaghetti
10-12 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Coat the bottom of a heavy skillet with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the breadcrumbs and toast them over a slow flame, stirring constantly, until they are a rich golden brown.
Put them in a small serving bowl and set aside.
Put 1/3 cup olive oil in a skillet, add the garlic cloves, slightly crushed but still of a piece.
Sauté the garlic until it begins to color, then discard.
Add the tomato paste and the water to the hot oil, stirring until the tomato paste is completely dissolved.
Simmer over very low heat for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling water, only lightly salted since both the tomato paste and the anchovies are very salty.
In a separate pan or a double boiler (I always use a small double handled frying pan that will sit on top of my spaghetti pot), cook the anchovies together with 1 teaspoon of olive oil, stirring them until they dissolve in a cream.
This must be done over steam and not over the direct flame, lest the anchovies turn bitter.
Add the anchovies to the tomato sauce and simmer 2 to 3 minutes longer.
Drain the spaghetti when cooked al dente, reserving a cup of the cooking water.
(This is always a wise precaution when preparing pasta with a very
concentrated sauce or with breadcrumbs - a few tablespoons of the reserved liquid will correct any eventual dryness).
Place the spaghetti in a large bowl, add the sauce, and mix thoroughly, pouring in a little of the reserved liquid if necessary.
Sprinkle with some of the breadcrumbs and with the parsley.
Pass the remaining breadcrumbs on the side.


Copyright: Mary Taylor Simeti, "POMP AND SUSTENANCE, TWENTY FIVE CENTURIES OF SICILIAN FOOD" Knopf, NY 1989