Acciughe al Verde (Anchovies in Green Sauce)

This is the dish to serve anchovy-haters.
I have tested this on several such sorts and the result, every time, was astonishment: "I never knew anchovies could be like this!" They are right.
No one whose experience with anchovies has been limited to the scrawny little fillets embalmed in acrid olive oil could possibly suspect such goodness.
The secret to acciughe al verde lies in getting the sort of anchovies that the Italians themselves use.
This takes a little looking in neighborhood specialty stores-or, even easier, ordering the anchovies by mail (about which more farther on).
In Piedmontese homes, acciughe al verde are served in their terrine, which is passed around the table, everyone forking out as much as they dare.
Typically, the anchovies are eaten with a knife and fork, the delectable verde part being sopped up with bread.
Such is the Piedmontese love of anchovies that I was surprised at how rarely this dish ever found its way into other, obvious, vehicles, such as a sauce for polenta or pasta, or as a topping for pizza. I have used it with all three items.
When I've asked my Piedmontese friends about whether they do the same, they grin sheepishly and say there's never enough left for such a purpose.
But of course they must - it's simply too good on polenta, especially, not to be so employed.

WORTH NOTING

Preparing ahead of time Acciughe al verde are much better if allowed to "marry" for 4 to 6 hours or, better yet, overnight.
What's more, they hold their flavor, refrigerated, for several weeks if tightly sealed.

Italian parsley After the anchovies, the next most critical ingredient is flat-leaf Italian parsley. Resist the temptation to substitute curly-leaved parsley.
Its flavor is not at all the same.
Cilantro can be mistiken for Italian parsley in appearance because it, too, is flatleaved. But compared side by side, the differences in leaf shape and, especially, scent become immediately apparent.
Cilantro has a very strong, metallic smell and flavor, whereas Italian parsley smells sweet and herbaceous, almost like a newly mowed lawn.

Makes 4 servings

20 whole salted anchovies, rinsed, filleted
soaked in cold water briefly, drained,
and very finely chopped
1 tablespoon salt-packed capers,
rinsed and crushed
One 3 ½ - ounce can solid white tuna,
drained and finely crumbled
2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped
1 small red bell pepper, peeled with a
vegetable peeler, cored, seeded and
finely chopped 		6 tablespoons prepared tomato sauce
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Small handful of fresh basil leaves,
finely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano
leaves, finely chopped, or
½ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper


To clean the anchovies (figure this will take about 20 seconds per anchovy): A newly opened can will have a thick layer of moist salt on top.
Gently poke a finger underneath the salt and you'll hit the first layer of anchovies. Lift the anchovies carefully from the can.
Under lukewarm running water, gently rub the salt from the sides of the anchovy until it feels fairly smooth. Turn it belly side up.
Let the running water (not too forceful) open up the already gutted anchovy. Run your thumbnail from the end of the opened belly to the tail to free each fillet from the spine. Pull off one fillet, exposing the spine.
Then pluck off the spine, which will free the second fillet.
Discard the spine and tail, and place the anchovies in a bowl of cold water to freshen.

To make the acciughe al verde, process the parsley and garlic together in a food processor until finely chopped. Do not puree the parsley.
Stop the processor, add the 6 tablespoons olive oil, the vinegar, and cayenne, and process briefly to combine.

Drain the anchovies and place in a small bowl or a presentation terrine. Mix the sauce thoroughly with the anchovies.
The consistency should be that of a thick liquid; add more olive oil if you like.
Cover tightly and let sit at room temperature for at least 4 hours or, better yet, overnight.

Acciughe al verde should always be served at room temperature.
Barbera is the ideal red wine to accompany this dish, along with bread or grissini.

Copyright: Matt Kramer, "A Passion for Piedmont - Italy's Most Glorious Regional Table"
William Morrow & Company Inc. NY, 1997